Remodel Resin — Rezzy Reference Facts

Product, process, and troubleshooting reference for the Rezzy voice agent

Sources: Remodel Resin 101 video series (30 videos) + owner interview with Mike Quist

Note: Rezzy's tone, guardrails, and escalation rules live in the agent prompt, not here. This file is facts only.

SECTION B — SUBSTRATES: WHAT IT GOES OVER

Every substrate starts the same way: degrease and clean. After that, it comes down to whether the surface takes bonding primer or needs a mechanical bite first.

Bonding primer surfaces

Can I put this over laminate? Yes — that's the most common project. Degrease and clean, scuff it with 60 grit on a random orbital to get a mechanical bond, then two coats of our bonding primer and pour your recipe.

Can I go over granite? Yes. Clean it, apply our bonding primer, and pour your recipe on top.

What about quartz? Yes, same as granite. Clean, bonding primer, pour.

What about Corian or solid surface? Yes — treat it exactly like laminate.

Cultured marble? Yes, same as Corian and laminate. No problem.

Can I do a bathroom vanity? Absolutely, and it's a great first project. Same as laminate. Pull the sink out, coat the top, then reinstall it or drop in a new one.

Surfaces that need a bite first

Concrete? No problem. Sand it, then apply our bonding primer.

Stainless steel? Yes, but you have to sand it with 60 grit first so the primer has something to bite into.

Butcher block or wood? Yes — treat it exactly like raw MDF. Spackle the porosity, sand, and go.

Tile — the special case

Can I go over tile? Yes, but not by coating it directly — you build a new wood substrate over the top of it. Here's how it works.

How do I do tile? Build your front edge first — an inch-and-a-half drop edge attached right to the face of the cabinet, same as we do in new construction. Then trowel Remodel Resin Clear onto the tile itself, lay a piece of eighth-inch Masonite or plywood veneer into that wet resin, and push it down so it beds in. The resin is your adhesive. The top veneer overlaps down onto that new front edge you built.

Won't that raise my counter height a lot? No. The veneer is only an eighth of an inch, so it barely changes the height.

Why can't I just pour on the tile? Grout lines and tile edges telegraph through. Building a flat wood substrate over the top gives you the clean, flat surface the resin needs.

Locations

Can I do this in an RV or camper? Yes, no problem. Just do a good job masking — you're working in tight quarters.

Can I do this in a commercial kitchen? Yes, as long as you follow the same prep and process. And commercial is actually where the re-top-coat option really shines — you can refresh worn counters instead of replacing them.

Can I use this outdoors — an outdoor kitchen or patio bar? We don't recommend it. Our epoxy resin isn't formulated for outdoor use — it's designed for indoor kitchens and bathrooms, and that's where it performs. If you're set on an outdoor project, our White Platinum is a different formulation and it can handle outdoors.

Why doesn't the regular resin work outside? It's a formulation question. Our standard resin is engineered for indoor kitchens and bathrooms. White Platinum is a different chemistry, which is why it's the one that holds up outdoors.

So Platinum outside is fine? Platinum is the one formulated to handle it. That said, our recommendation across the board is indoor kitchens and bathrooms — that's what the system was designed for.

SECTION C — HEAT, CUTTING, AND FOOD SAFETY

This section is written carefully on purpose. Rezzy delivers it as-is and does not upgrade any of the language.

Can I set a hot pan on it? We don't recommend setting hot items directly from the stove onto the counter. That said, we've tested it — hot frying pans straight off the burner, right after frying eggs — with excellent results. We still always recommend using protection for hot items.

How heat resistant is it, really? It's heat resistant and built for the use and abuse of a real kitchen. We've put hot pans straight from the stove on it in testing with excellent results. We still recommend a trivet or a pad as a habit.

Can I cut directly on it? We don't recommend it — knives will damage the surface. Use a cutting board. But here's the good news: if the surface does get worn or scratched over the years, you sand it and re-top-coat it. You never have to redo the whole countertop.

How does the re-top-coat work? You sand and re-top-coat the entire countertop — the full run, out to wherever that counter naturally ends at a seam or an edge. You don't spot-fix a worn patch, because a patch will catch the light differently. Doing the whole run keeps it seamless.

How often would I need to do that? As needed over the years. It's especially useful in commercial spaces and apartment complexes where counters take heavy use — it's how you keep them looking new without replacing anything.

Is it food safe? It's rated safe for incidental food contact. We do recommend using cutting boards and not eating directly off the countertop.

[REZZY RULE] "Incidental food contact" is the ceiling. Never say "food safe," "food grade," or "safe to eat off of." Never say a specific temperature rating — we don't publish one.

SECTION D — SHIPPING, RETURNS, AND DAMAGED ORDERS

How fast does it ship? We ship UPS Ground, and orders go out the next business day after you place them.

Do you ship to Alaska or Hawaii? Not at this time. We're shipping to the lower 48 right now. If you'd like to set up a freight forwarder, we're happy to ship to them.

Do you ship to Canada? Not at this time. We do welcome freight forwarders if you'd like to arrange one.

What's your return policy? Thirty days, as long as the product is unused. The full policy is on our website at remodelresin.com.

My order showed up damaged. I'm sorry about that. Email photos of the damage to info at remodel resin dot com — that's i-n-f-o at remodel resin dot com — and let us know whether you'd like a refund or a replacement, and we'll take care of you from there.

I need to cancel an order that already shipped. No problem — just send it back unused and we'll refund you.

Can I change my order after I've placed it? Give us a call or email info at remodel resin dot com as quickly as you can, since orders go out the next business day. If it's already gone, send it back unused and we'll refund it.

[REZZY RULE] Damaged goods is an email redirect, not a callback. She gives the address, offers to repeat it, and does not log a callback for it.

SECTION E — WARRANTY

Do you warranty your products? We don't offer a formal warranty on the finished result, and here's the honest reason — we can't control how the product gets applied or used. What we can tell you is that our products have stood the test of time, and we teach every best practice free on our YouTube channel and in the directions. We do warranty our products against damage in shipping. And we always want to treat our customers right — so if something's not going well, let us know and we'll see if we can find a good solution for you.

What if my counter fails? Tell me what's happening and I'll see if I can help. If it's something the team needs to look at, I'll take your information and have someone get back to you the next business day. We always want to do right by our customers. [ESCALATE — category 2 or 3]

Will you replace it if I'm not happy with how it turned out? Let me get your name and number and have the team reach out — they'll want to hear what happened and figure out the right solution with you. [ESCALATE — category 3]

[REZZY RULE] She delivers the warm close but never commits to a specific remedy. The moment a caller asks for a particular fix — refund, replacement, free product — that's a callback so Mike makes the offer.

SECTION F — TIMELINE AND DOWNTIME

How long is my kitchen out of commission? Three days down, and you're back in business on day four. Day one is prep and prime, day two is the pour, day three is top coat, and day four you polish and you're using it.

Can I use the kitchen while it's happening? No — the kitchen's out, sink included. Plan on eating out for a few nights. Think of it as a good excuse for a few dates out.

Can I use the sink? Not during the project. The sink comes out for the pour, so plan around it.

Is there any way to do it faster? Depending on the size of the project, some people combine prep, prime, and pour into day one, which cuts it down to about two days. If it's a smaller kitchen and you're comfortable moving quickly, that's an option.

How long does a project take, total? A weekend for most kitchens. Counters are usable the day after you finish the top coat and polish.

SECTION G — THE SYSTEM AT A GLANCE

What is Remodel Resin? A DIY epoxy system that resurfaces old countertops or coats new ones so they look like high-end natural stone.

What are the steps? Prep, Prime, Pour, and Top Coat. We call it the three P's and a T.

Do I need experience? No. The system was built for people who have never done a countertop. If you can follow a recipe, you can make countertops.

How much does it save? Roughly ten times your money and ten times your time compared to replacement.

What can I make besides countertops? Backsplashes, window sills, hearths, bar tops, tabletops, desktops, vanities, hot plates, lazy Susans, charcuterie boards, and wall art. Anything flat and horizontal.

SECTION H — MASTER NUMBERS

SpecValue

Mix ratio2:1 — two parts A to one part B

Mix time2 minutes on a drill

Coverage6 oz per square foot

Kit size1.5 gallon = 192 oz

Kit coverage32 to 38 sq ft

Material temperature70–80°F

Top coat room temperature72–75°F

True Tint1 drop per ounce

Metallic powder1 scoop per 8 oz minimum — up to 1 scoop per 4 oz for a richer effect

Primer2 coats, 1/4" nap roller

Primer dry time15–30 minutes

Sample board2 ft x 2 ft = 4 sq ft = 24 oz

Backsplash edge1/8" round over

Drip wipingStart 20 min after pour, every 10–15 min, 3–4 rounds

Sanding ladder220, 320, 400, 500, 1000, 2000, 3000, 4000

Ceramic mesh discs220 through 400, with vacuum

Abralon discs500 and up, no vacuum, run them wet

Edges and radiusDon't sand until 500 grit minimum

Top coat coverage40 to 50 sq ft — we include extra so a kit always has enough

Top coat overlap30–50% per stroke, two strokes per run

Compound coverage40–50 sq ft per bottle

Compound working timeAbout 30 seconds to break from abrasive to polish

White platinum cureFull 24 hours before sanding

White platinum + alcoholWait 1–2 weeks before cleaning with isopropyl

SECTION I — MEASURING AND ORDERING

How do I measure my countertops? Length times width equals square footage. An 8-foot by 2-foot run is 16 square feet.

What if my kitchen is an L-shape or U-shape? Use the calculator at remodelresin.com. Take a photo of the space, upload it, and it gives you the square footage.

Should I clear my counters before taking the photo? No — leave everything out. Appliances, water bottles, tape rolls, all of it. Each object gives the AI another reference point, which makes the measurement more accurate.

How does it know the scale? Electrical outlets and plugs are standardized, so the system uses them as a built-in ruler.

Can I see what a color looks like in my kitchen? Yes. The visualizer at remodelresin.com lets you upload a photo and apply any recipe to your space.

How much material do I need? Six ounces per square foot. A kit covers 32 to 38 square feet. Multiply your square footage by six and the calculator does the rest.

How much top coat do I need? One top coat container goes 40 to 50 square feet. We put a little extra in on purpose so a kit's worth of color always has enough top coat to cover it.

Can you give me a price? Everything's priced on our website at remodelresin.com — that'll be the most current information.

SECTION J — PREP AND MASKING

Where do I start masking? At the floor, working up. Same principle as shingling a roof — anything running down lands on top of your masking instead of behind it.

What tape goes where? Blue tape anywhere it touches a finished surface — floors, cabinets, painted walls. White tape on seams and tape-to-tape, because it's stickier. Green frog tape for critical holds that can't come loose.

What do I put on the floor? Builder paper from the paint aisle, or Ram Board. Best option is 1/8" veneer or Masonite cut into 2-foot runners — durable and reusable.

Can I use plastic on the floor? No. A drip of resin on plastic turns it into a glue trap. You step in it and stick. Plastic is for vertical surfaces only.

Why do I need degreaser first? Tape won't stick to years of grease and grime. Clean surfaces mean your masking holds for the whole job.

Do I remove the drawers? Pull the top drawers. It lets you mask right to the top strip and gives your fingers clearance to wipe drips under the counter edge. Number each drawer and its opening with blue tape.

What about appliances? Remove anything butting the countertop — fridge, slide-in range, cooktop. Stage them on the other side of the room. Don't try to mask between appliances and pour around them.

Do I remove the sink? Yes. If you're installing a new one, measure the current opening and order it now so it arrives when the counters are ready.

SECTION K — REPAIRING DAMAGE

Can you fix burn marks, chips, and gouges? Yes. Major damage in laminate is easily fixed. Burn marks, chips, dings, and deep gouges all get filled and sanded flush before you pour.

When do I use Bondo versus spackle? Bondo for big gashes, grooves, chips, and burns that need real fill. Fast dry spackle for light porosity in particle board or MDF and small damage.

Why blue cream hardener? You can watch the color change as you mix. When it's all one color, it's mixed. Blue is true.

How much Bondo do I need? Very little. One popsicle stick's worth handles most countertops.

What is ghosting? Resin tattletales — a sloppy repair can show through the finished surface. It's most likely on edges, because that's where the resin coat is thinnest.

Does the repair need to look good? No, it needs to feel good. Sand it flush and run your hand across it. Resin hides color and texture but it can't hide a ridge.

What grit do I sand repairs to? 220 grit. It should take about 20 seconds. If it's taking much longer, you overfilled.

SECTION L — PRIMER

[REZZY RULE] Never bring primer up unprompted. Only answer these if the caller asks.

Why do I need primer? Sanding gives you a mechanical bond. Primer gives you a chemical bond. Together they create lifetime adhesion.

Can I use a different primer? No. This primer was formulated specifically for the Remodel Resin system. A generic primer looks the same going on and costs you the bond.

What else does primer do? It blocks contaminants. Old countertops can have silicone on them from furniture polish, and silicone causes fish eyes in coatings. Primer is your barrier. It's also your base color.

What color primer do I use? Whatever the recipe calls for — black, white, or brown. The primer color is part of the recipe.

How do I apply it? Shake it, pour a bead down the center, and roll it out with a 1/4" nap roller. Two coats on the surface and two on the edges.

Why does the first coat look thin? That's normal. The first coat goes on translucent and the second coat turns it opaque.

How long does primer take to dry? Fifteen to thirty minutes. Use that time to stage your pour.

How do I do the edges? Turn the roller perpendicular and run it parallel with the edge instead of rolling off the edge.

SECTION M — SAMPLE BOARDS

Why should I make a sample? Any project you haven't done before starts with a sample. It's a dress rehearsal with zero stakes, and it's how you confirm a recipe before committing to your kitchen.

What size? Two feet by two feet. Big enough for real experience, small enough that it doesn't eat material. That's 4 square feet, so 24 ounces.

What do I build it from? MDF. Cut with a fine tooth woodworking blade.

Do I have to router the edges? You need an eased edge so the resin flows over the side like a drain. A 1/8" round over bit is ideal, but a sander works — long strokes at about 45 degrees, breaking the angle and keeping it moving.

What about the MDF edges? Fast dry spackle. It prefills the porosity so the resin flows smooth. Fifteen minutes to dry, then sand. Pink turns white when it's dry.

What do I do with the sample afterward? Hot plate, wall art, lazy Susan, backsplash accent, or a small piece of furniture. Nothing gets wasted.

SECTION N — MIXING

What's the ratio? Two parts A to one part B. Part A's bottle is twice the size — that's your telltale sign.

Why 2:1 instead of 1:1? There's no filler in our Part B. That gives you a harder film and a tougher finish. We don't water it down to make the math easier.

How do I measure? Use the graduated marks on the bucket. Pick a number, fill Part A to it on the two-part side, then Part B to the same number on the one-part side. Never eyeball it.

How long do I mix? Two minutes on a drill. Start slow so the bucket doesn't spin out of your hands, then work up to full speed.

How do I know it's mixed? Part A is thicker and Part B is thinner. When it becomes one clarity, one color, and one viscosity, you're done.

Do I need to scrape the bucket? Yes. Slow the drill down and work the sides and bottom. That clinging material is the part most likely to be undermixed.

Why does the paddle have no fins? Fins can crack brittle buckets and they whip excessive air into the material. The cylindrical shape scrapes the bottom and sides instead.

When does my working time start? The moment you mix. Everything should already be staged before Part B goes in.

How do I get more working time? Cool the material down before you pour. In hot climates like Arizona or Vegas in summer, put it in the fridge. In cold climates, warm it in front of a space heater. Target 70 to 80 degrees.

Why does heat matter? The chemical reaction generates its own heat. If the material starts warm, it sets up prematurely and you lose working time.

Can I mix all my buckets at once for a big kitchen? No. Mix one bucket, pour it, level it, torch it, then mix the next. Never mix five buckets at once.

SECTION O — COLORS AND RECIPES

What's the difference between True Tints and metallics? True Tints are opaque solid colors. Metallics contain actual stone minerals, which is what makes the finished piece read as natural instead of painted. They work in conjunction.

How much True Tint do I use? One drop per ounce. A 16-ounce cup gets 16 drops. Cut the tip of the orifice first so you get heavy drops.

How much metallic do I use? At minimum, one scoop per eight ounces. If you want a richer, deeper effect you can go up to one scoop per four ounces. Don't underdo it — too little metallic comes out washed out and muted. The color calculator at remodelresin.com gives you exact amounts for your recipe.

What order do I mix colors? Lightest first. White before black — introducing black into white changes the color far more than the other way around.

How do I mix metallic without making a mess? Push the powder down into the resin with the paddle and bury it before you go to speed. Starting fast launches it into the air.

What colors are available? Silverstone, Labradorite, Blue Pearl, Jade Emerald, Travertine Noche, White Granite, Red Rock, Van Gogh Granite, Fantasy Brown, Whisper Grey, and Exotic Black Pearl, among others. Full recipes are at remodelresin.com.

Can I make my own color? Yes. Find a stone you love, break it into its tones, and build it. Red plus yellow makes a rust, and Platinum white is designed to be tinted down to any shade.

Does Platinum white turn yellow? No. It's formulated to stay white for the lifetime of the project.

Is one drop per ounce a hard rule? It's a starting point. If you want a darker base you can go two drops per ounce. Once you know what the tints do, you can steer them.

SECTION P — POURING

How do I spread the material? With a gloved hand. Every tool has been tried and nothing beats four fingers and a thumb for accuracy.

Do I pour all the way to the edges? No. Stay about 2 inches shy at first, then push material out to the edges later so you don't lose it over the side early.

What's grain flow? Moving everything in the same general direction so the piece reads as natural stone instead of something man-made. There's no right or wrong way to move your hand as long as you stay in that flow.

What's the torch and alcohol step? Torch the material three times, then mist heavy drops of isopropyl alcohol, then torch again. It pops surface bubbles, releases surface tension, warms the material, and drives the reactive resin effect.

How do I hold the torch? Relatively close, and always moving — like mowing a lawn. Never overheat one section.

Should I torch the front edge? No. Heat makes material flow, and on a vertical face it flows right off. Sweep the surface only.

How do I spray the alcohol? Heavy drops, not a fine mist. Pull the trigger just a little. Test it on a rag before you mix.

It looks like a finger painting. Did I ruin it? No — that's the normal midpoint. The alcohol reaction is what turns it into stone. Finish the process before you judge it.

Should I keep working the surface? No. Going over the same spot repeatedly blends everything into one uniform color, and uniform is what makes a countertop look fake. The variation is the product.

What if a spot doesn't flow over the edge? That's surface tension. Grab a little material and rub the spot and it releases.

Can I fix something I don't like? Yes, but only early. Stretch an unwanted shape into a fracture with a fine brush tip. Once it's deep into curing, it won't level and you're stuck with it.

Why is my color uneven? That's the goal. Real slabs vary end to end. Uniform color is what makes a countertop look manufactured.

I'm pouring right now and something's going wrong. Tell me what you're seeing and I'll help if I can — but if this is something the team needs eyes on, let me grab your name and number so someone can get back to you. [ESCALATE — category 1]

SECTION Q — AFTER THE POUR

What do I do about drips? Start wiping about 20 minutes after the pour, then every 10 to 15 minutes until they stop. Usually three or four rounds. Fresh gloves each time.

Why does it matter? Two reasons. It saves you sanding hardened drips tomorrow, and it waterproofs the underside. A spill runs across the top, down the front edge, and travels underneath before it drips.

When do I remove the masking? About an hour after the pour, once drips have stopped. Any resin that got behind the tape is still in gel state and wipes off with isopropyl. Wait until tomorrow and you're picking at hardened resin.

How do I take the plastic down? Loosen the tape at the floor first so you can roll the plastic into itself. Work up the wall, then off the cabinet, always pulling down and away from the countertop. Leave the floor covering until the project is finished.

How long until it's dry? Overnight. You can sand and top coat the next day.

SECTION R — SANDING

Why sand at all? To flatten any imperfection and create the mechanical bond for top coat. The top coat is very thin — it doesn't hide anything.

What's the grit sequence? 220, 320, 400, 500, 1000, 2000, 3000, then 4000.

Can I start higher than 220? Yes. Start at whatever grit removes the imperfections you actually have. A clean pour might start at 400.

What discs do I use? Ceramic mesh for 220 through 400 — they're see-through with holes, so dust gets pulled up instead of pressed back in. Abralon discs from 500 up.

What are Abralon discs? Cushioned foam-core discs designed to sand and polish bowling balls, which are hard resin. They're 6 inches on a 5-inch sander, reusable, and washable.

Do I need a vacuum? Yes, through 400 grit. Dust left under the pad causes curly cues — visible machine marks. Any cheap shop vac works. You can drop the vacuum once you're on Abralons.

Should I sand wet or dry? Wet on the Abralons. It improves the sheen and polish, and it extends the life of the discs.

When can I sand the edges? Not until 500 grit, sometimes 1000. Sharp edges and roundovers sand through much faster than a flat surface, and burning through takes you back to substrate.

What if I burn through an edge? A dab of spray paint on your finger, a Sharpie, or a furniture marker will add color back before top coat.

What are shiny spots? Low points the disc hasn't reached yet. When the whole surface reads the same, you're flat. Stop there.

How fast should I move the sander? About an inch or two per second. Let the tool do the work.

Do I wipe between grits? Yes, with a damp microfiber through the heavy grits. It clears dust and cools the resin, which makes the next disc cut better. Above 1000 there's barely any dust.

What about a deep pinhole? Don't sand the whole surface down to meet it. Fill it with UV Cure resin, flash it with a nail dryer, and sand it flush.

How long does sanding take? Fifteen to twenty minutes for a single run. Most of that time is in the first grit.

SECTION S — TOP COAT

Do I have to top coat? No. The resin is self-sustaining and stands alone. Top coat adds scratch, heat, and UV resistance, and it changes the look from very glossy to natural stone.

Can I add it later? Yes, even years later. Sand and apply, and you're off to the races. That's also how commercial spaces and apartments refresh worn counters instead of replacing them.

How do I apply it? A squeeze bottle and a microfiber squeegee. Prime the squeegee first so it's spreading material instead of wiping it off.

What's the motion? Bead down the center of the run, pull the squeegee the full length, stop an inch short, turn it, and pull back. Two strokes per run, then move on. Overlap each run 30 to 50 percent.

Where do I stand? Start with your body at the front of the countertop and work your way out so you're never leaning over fresh coating.

Can I use a brush, roller, or sprayer? All of it has been tested. Rollers leave orange peel and lap lines. The microfiber squeegee is the method that works.

What temperature? 72 to 75 degrees, a little cooler is fine. Never a hot or sun-filled room. Turn the AC off so there's no air movement.

How much does one container cover? Forty to fifty square feet. We include a little extra on purpose so a kit's worth of color always has enough top coat to cover it.

Is there waste? No. It's a single component, so leftovers pour straight back into the container.

How do I open the container? Stir it, don't shake it. Then take it away from your countertop and use a screwdriver through the hoop for leverage, working the freshness seal out gradually. Pulling by hand splashes.

It doesn't look perfect after I applied it. That's normal. Let it tighten and dry and it works itself out to an even sheen.

When can I use my counters? The next day.

SECTION T — COMPOUNDING AND FINISHING

What's the last step? A light wet sand with 4000 grit, then compound with the felt backer, then the nano ceramic spray.

What does the compound do? It starts as a slight abrasive and breaks down into a polish in about 30 seconds. One product does both jobs.

How do I apply it? A few dollops per foot, working 3 by 2 foot sections. Spread them with the pad before you start the machine so it doesn't spit. About a minute or two per section, finishing with figure eights and overlapping into what you've done.

How much does a bottle cover? Forty to fifty square feet.

What's the nano ceramic spray? It removes the compound haze, adds scratch and UV resistance, and leaves a slick finish. It's also your ongoing maintenance spray.

How do I use it? Mist a section, wipe with a microfiber, always with the grain. It feels sticky for about a minute and a half to two minutes while the polymer dries, then it goes slick.

What should the finish look like? Not ultra glossy. You want it to diffuse the light slightly — you can follow the reflections but they aren't mirror sharp. That's what natural stone does.

Any tip that saves the job? Blow the sanding dust out of your random orbital before you polish, or it sprays old dust into your fresh finish.

SECTION U — WHITE PLATINUM SPECIFICS

How is white platinum different? It's formulated so it never yellows, and that chemistry behaves differently from the standard clear.

How does it cure? The clear cures from the inside out, so dry to the touch means dry through. White platinum feels dry on the surface while it's still curing inside.

How long before I sand it? A full 24 hours, and longer in cooler temperatures. Sanding at 18 hours means drips are still soft inside.

Can I clean it with alcohol? Not for the first one to two weeks. It's still cross-linking, and alcohol at that stage leaves the surface sticky. Dry wipe only.

Is it as tough as the standard resin? Yes, once fully cured. It just needs a little more patience getting there.

Is white harder to work with? Easier, actually. White hides curly cues and imperfections. The closer a color is to black, the more every mark shows.

SECTION V — NEW CONSTRUCTION

Can I build a countertop from scratch? Yes. New cabinets, a vanity, a bar top, a desk, a tabletop — all of it.

What substrate do I use? MDF. It's flat with no bow, solid all the way through, and about $1.25 a square foot.

Why not plywood? Plywood works but it's usually bowed unless screwed tight, and the edge voids need filling.

What about particle board? Never. It's the worst substrate in construction — porous, brittle, short-lived, and it hates moisture.

What about moisture around the sink? Roll a vapor barrier like RedGard around sink and dishwasher areas. That solves it on MDF or plywood.

How wide do I cut it? Cabinet depth plus 1.5 inches for the overhang. A 24-inch cabinet gets a 25.5-inch top.

What's a drop edge? Strips of MDF glued to the front and sides to build up the apparent thickness. Raw MDF is 3/4 inch; most countertops read as 1.25 to 1.5 inches thick.

How do I attach the drop edge? Titebond Quick and Thick glue with 23 gauge, 1.25-inch pin nails about every 6 inches. The pins just hold it while the glue sets.

What edge profiles can I do? Chiseled, slate, flat or appliance edge, Roman ogee, roundovers — anything a router bit can create.

Do I have to round the edges? Yes. Never leave a 90-degree corner, because resin won't flow over a sharp edge. Round the top and the underside of the drop edge so it wraps without leaving a lip.

Do I spackle new MDF? Yes, on the edges. Raw MDF porosity telegraphs through the finished resin.

How do I install it? Screw strips — 2-inch plywood strips on top of the cabinets. They lift the top so the drop edge clears the drawers, and you screw up through them into the underside.

Why do I need to lift it? The distance from the top of the drawer to the top of the face frame varies by cabinet. If your drop edge is deeper than that clearance, it binds the drawers.

What screws? Coarse thread into MDF, fine thread into hardwood. Pre-drill hardwood with a 1/16-inch bit so you don't split the face frame.

Do I dry fit first? Always. Discovering a problem with adhesive already on means cleaning glue off the back of a finished top.

SECTION W — BACKSPLASH

Do I have to remove the old backsplash? For integrated laminate splash, yes. It's a telltale sign of a fake countertop, and our material is designed to be poured on a horizontal plane.

How do I remove it? A multi-tool with a hardwood blade is what most DIYers use. A sawzall works but doesn't cut flat. A jamsaw is the pro choice — depth gauge, vacuum hookup, cuts flush fast.

What should I watch out for? Fabricators often ran screws up from underneath into the backsplash. Keep a bi-metal blade handy.

How do I build the new one? MDF, cut taller than the original so it hides wall damage, but stay just below the lowest receptacle. Round over the exposed edges only — the bottom stays flat for a tight seam.

When does it get installed? Before you pour the countertop. It acts as a dam that stops the flow and seals that edge, which makes it more watertight than a natural stone install.

How do I install it? Adhesive dollops every 6 to 8 inches, placed in the middle of the splash so squeeze-out doesn't reach the top or bottom edge. Then a bead of paintable sealant at the bottom joint to block resin from getting behind it.

Do I prep it before or after installing? Before. Sanding it flat on a bench is far easier than doing it vertical on a wall.

SECTION X — TOOLS AND CLEANUP

How do I clean my tools? Isopropyl alcohol, acetone, or just let it dry. Most of the time, letting it dry is the right answer.

Should I clean my mixing buckets? No. A bucket costs a couple dollars and your countertop is worth thousands. Let it dry, pop the slug out, and repurpose the bucket for shop storage.

What if I reuse a bucket? Let it fully cure, pop the resin out, get every last piece, and blow it out. Missed bits float to the top of your next pour and leave a ridge.

How do I clean the torch? Put a glove over it. Then there's nothing to clean.

What about my alcohol bottle? Keep one designated dirty bottle for pouring and keep the rest clean.

How do I get resin off my skin? Put soap on dry skin first, wipe the spot, then rinse with water.

How do I get my gloves off with resin on my hands? Hold a used paper towel for traction to pinch the first glove off, then use your clean hand to envelope it in the second.

What tools do I need? A drill, the Tornado mixing paddle, a propane torch, a random orbital sander, a shop vac, graduated buckets, gloves, rags, and an isopropyl spray bottle. The sanding and polishing kit covers all your grits.

What kind of torch? Propane, with a head that has holes in it so the flame stays lit upside down. Any hardware store torch plus the attachment.

Can I use a heat gun or blow dryer instead? Both work, but a heat gun is slower and a blow dryer pulls lint and dust into your finish. The torch is the right tool.

SECTION Y — CARE AND MAINTENANCE

How durable is it? Heat resistant, scratch resistant, and UV resistant. Designed for the use and abuse of real kitchens and bathrooms.

When can I use my counters? The day you finish. No waiting weeks to cure.

How do I clean them? Normal household cleaning. The nano ceramic spray is the recommended maintenance spray — weekly, monthly, or before a gathering.

Important exception for white: Don't clean a white platinum countertop with isopropyl alcohol for the first one to two weeks after the pour.

Will it yellow? No. The formula includes UV blockers and optical brighteners, and white platinum specifically is engineered never to yellow.

Can I refresh it later? Yes. Sand and re-top-coat the whole countertop and it looks new again. That's how commercial spaces and high-turnover apartments maintain them.

SECTION Z — TROUBLESHOOTING BY SYMPTOM

Sticky spots Caused by undermixing. Mix a full 2 minutes, work the sides and bottom of the bucket, and scrape leftover material before using it.

Fish eyes Silicone contamination, often from furniture polish on an old countertop. Primer is the barrier that prevents it.

Ghosting or telegraphing A repair showing through the finish. Most common on edges where the coat is thinnest. Fill properly and sand flush.

Curly cues or machine marks Sanding dust getting pressed back into the surface. Use ceramic mesh discs and hook the sander to a vacuum.

Burned through to substrate Sanding an edge or radius before 500 grit. Touch up with spray paint on a finger, a Sharpie, or a furniture marker before top coat.

Waviness or imperfections after pouring Usually too little material. Six ounces per square foot is the sweet spot.

Color or pattern stretched out Too much material. It runs off the edge and pulls the design with it.

Washed out, muted metallic Not enough metallic powder in the cup. One scoop per eight ounces is your minimum.

Premature setup, lost working time Material was too warm going in. Cool it in the fridge before pouring in hot conditions.

Chunks or ridges in a finished pour Cured resin left in a reused mixing bucket.

Hardened drips on the underside Drips weren't wiped during the cure. Remove with a multi-tool, an 80 grit random orbital, or a 50 grit metal disc on an angle grinder.

Sticky surface on white after cleaning Isopropyl alcohol applied too soon. Wait one to two weeks after the pour.

It's cured and I don't like how it looks. Let me get your name and number and have someone from the team reach out — they'll want to hear the details and talk through your options. [ESCALATE — category 2]

SECTION AA — THE TOP TEN MISTAKES

1. Undermixing — the number one cause of sticky spots

2. Eyeballing the ratio instead of using graduated marks

3. Skipping the degreaser, so masking peels loose

4. Plastic on the floor, which becomes a glue trap

5. Walking away before the drips stop

6. Overworking the surface, which flattens all the color variation

7. Sanding edges before 500 grit and burning through

8. Judging the pour before the alcohol reaction

9. Mixing more material than you can pour

10. Testing a brand new recipe on the real project instead of a sample

SECTION AB — PRO, COMMERCIAL, AND BID REQUESTS

Do you do the work for me? We're a DIY system — we give you everything you need to do it yourself, and we teach the whole process free on our YouTube channel. If you're looking for something bigger or commercial, let me take your name and number and have the team reach out. [ESCALATE — category 4]

Can you quote me a job? Let me get your name and number and someone will get back to you the next business day to talk it through. [ESCALATE — category 4]

Do you have volume or contractor pricing? That's a question for the team — let me take your information and have someone follow up with you. [ESCALATE — category 4]

Do you have a pro I can hire near me? Let me get your name, number, and your city, and I'll pass it along to the team. [ESCALATE — category 4]

SECTION AD — LINKS (CHAT AND SMS ONLY)

[REZZY RULE — CRITICAL] On a voice call, never read a URL aloud beyond "remodelresin.com." Reading a slug like "slash product dash page slash silverstone dash countertop dash kit" is unusable on a phone. On voice, say the plain domain or offer to text the link. On chat and SMS, always include the direct link. That's the whole advantage of the channel — use it.

Main pages

PageLink

Homehttps://www.remodelresin.com

All Productshttps://www.remodelresin.com/remodelresinproducts

Recipe Kitshttps://www.remodelresin.com/resin-recipie

Square footage calculatorhttps://www.remodelresin.com/measure-my-countertops-tool

Countertop visualizerhttps://www.remodelresin.com/countertopvisualizer

Remodel Resin 101 free traininghttps://www.remodelresin.com/remodel-resin-101

DIY videoshttps://www.remodelresin.com/home

Amazon tool linkshttps://www.remodelresin.com/amazon-tool-links

Hire a Prohttps://www.remodelresin.com/hireproinstallers

Contacthttps://www.remodelresin.com/contact

YouTube channelhttps://www.youtube.com/@RemodelResin

Policy pages

PageLink

Shipping Policyhttps://www.remodelresin.com/shipping-policy

Safety Data Sheets (SDS)https://www.remodelresin.com/sds

Terms & Conditionshttps://www.remodelresin.com/termsconditions

Privacy Policyhttps://www.remodelresin.com/privacy-policy

[REZZY RULE] Any health, safety, fumes, ventilation, or skin-contact question → send the SDS link. Do not describe hazards in her own words.

Resin systems, primer, top coats

ProductLink

Remodel Resin Clear 1.5 Gallon Kithttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/remodel-resin-clear-1-5-gallon-kit

White Platinum Remodel Resinhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/white-platinum-remodel-resin

Resin Bonding Primer Undercoathttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/resin-bonding-primer-undercoat

Tough Top Coathttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/tough-top-coat

UV Cure Resinhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/remodel-resin-uv-cure-resin

Countertop recipe kits

ColorLink

Silverstonehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/silverstone-countertop-kit

Exotic Black Pearlhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/exotic-black-pearl

Whisper Greyhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/whisper-grey-countertop-kit

Fantasy Brownhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/fantasy-brown-countertop-kit

Van Gogh Granitehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/van-gogh-granite-countertop-kit

Red Rockhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/red-rock-countertop-kit

Blue Pearlhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/blue-pearl-countertop-kit

Jade Emeraldhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/jade-emerald-countertop-kit

Labradoritehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/labradorite-countertop-kit

Travertine Nocehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/travertine-noce-countertop-kit-by-remodel-resin

White Granitehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/white-granite-countertop-kit

True Tint colorants

ColorLink

True Tint (all colorants)https://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/true-tint-remodel-resin-liquid-colorants

True Whitehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/true-tint-true-white-resin-colorant

True Blackhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/true-tint-true-black-resin-colorant

Dark Brownhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/true-tint-dark-brown-resin-colorant

Blue Steelhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/true-tint-blue-steel-resin-colorant

Green Rainforesthttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/true-tint-green-rainforest-resin-colorant

Red Naturalhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/true-tint-red-natural-resin-colorant

Yellow Oxidehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/true-tint-yellow-oxide-resin-colorant

Metallic powders

ColorLink

Complete 16-Color Sethttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/complete-metallic-powder-collection-16-color-set

Silver Pewterhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/silver-pewter-metallic-powder

Copper Canyonhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/copper-canyon-metallic-powder

Bronze Forgehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/bronze-forge-metallic-powder

Emerald Depthhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/emerald-depth-metallic-powder

Blue Flamehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/blue-flame-metallic-powder

White Pearlhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/white-pearl-metallic-powder

Rich Goldhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/rich-gold-metallic-powder

Black Obsidianhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/black-obsidian-metallic-powder

Ruby Redhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/ruby-red-metallic-powder

Green Sagehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/green-sage-metallic-powder

Teal Surgehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/teal-surge-metallic-powder

Glacier Sparkhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/glacier-spark-metallic-powder

Golden Sparkhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/golden-spark-metallic-powder

Steel Bluehttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/steel-blue-metallic-powder

Rose Pinkhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/rose-pink-metallic-powder

Violet Shifthttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/violet-shift-metallic-powder

Tools and supplies

ItemLink

Topcoat / Sanding / Finishing System Kithttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/sanding-topcoat-finishing-system-kit

Surface Prep & Protection Systemhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/remodel-resin-surface-prep-protection-system

Sanding Disc Kithttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/sanding-disc-kit

Mixing Paddle (Tornado)https://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/mixing-paddle

64 oz Mixing Buckethttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/64-ounce-mixing-bucket

24 oz Mixing Buckethttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/24-ounce-mixing-bucket

Measuring Stickhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/remodel-resin-measuring-stick

Hand Sanding Soft Backerhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/hand-sanding-soft-backer

5" Felt Polishing Padhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/5-hook-loop-solid-felt-polishing-pad

Sanding Disc Saverhttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/sanding-disc-saver

Instant Bond & Activator Sethttps://www.remodelresin.com/product-page/instant-bond-activator-set

Link-routing cheat sheet

Caller saysSend

"How much do I need?" / "How do I measure?"Square footage calculator

"What will it look like in my kitchen?"Visualizer

"What colors do you have?"Recipe Kits page

Names a specific colorThat color's kit page

"How do I do this?" / "Is there training?"Remodel Resin 101

"What tools do I need?"Topcoat/Sanding/Finishing Kit + Amazon tool links

Asks about primer (only if they ask)Bonding Primer page

"Do I need top coat?"Tough Top Coat page

Shipping questionShipping Policy

Return questionTake care of them warmly; hand to a human if unresolved

Fumes, safety, ventilation, skinSDS page

Wants someone to do it for themHire a Pro

[REZZY RULE — PRICING] Never state a price. Send the product link and let the page show current pricing. Prices change; a knowledge base doesn't update itself.

SECTION AC — CLOSING

Rezzy closes calls with the brand sign-off, and only at the end:

"You Got This."